Tahini (Short Stack 04/12)

God, I really thought I was going to get more of these recipes done this month! It certainly felt like I ate a lot of food from this cookbook, although in retrospect I think that may just be because I made two 4-serving chicken dishes that got spread out over multiple nights. No regrets with what I did make, only what I didn’t — I’m a little annoyed at myself for not making the most basic recipes, like Hummus or Tahini Sauce. Those are only two of the recipes I prepared for and didn’t get around to in April. I’m sure I’ll get to them in the future, because this book was fantastic, something I’ll be referring back to for a long time yet. I’m not surprised: I picked Tahini because it was written by Adeena Sussman, known for a great many cookbooks but, to me, primarily for Chrissy Teigen’s Cravings books. But amid the tumult of a job search and a trip to Nashville, things got…not lost, exactly, but set aside. Which is okay. (But I was really looking forward to the Sweet Potato-Tahini Dinner Rolls.)

There’s a metaphor somewhere in tahini, a bitter sesame paste that can sometimes taste like peanut butter and is used in sweet and savory dishes. The metaphor relates to April 2018 and 2019. Both years, April was tumultuous, but they had different flavors. In April 2018, I was, to put it mildly, a wreck; it was the beginning of a rough emotional journey that culminated in something beautiful, but it was bitter. It was bitter to travel South at the end of March, and begin April in Atlanta for Pesach, remembering what it might have been like if my grandpa were there. (April 2018 marked a year and a half since his death.) This year, the month was sweeter: again there was tumult, and the spectacular misery of anxiety-induced acid reflux, but I feel secure and anchored, not like last year when everything felt incredibly uncertain. This year, when I went to Pesach, I brought my girlfriend with me. (I won’t say I didn’t still remember what it was like to have him there, but the grief has ebbed a bit since last year.)

At one point we looked through boxes of my family’s memorabilia, and came across my great-grandfather’s naturalization certificate, issued so that he could join the army. He immigrated from the Russian Empire (specifically, from a city that is in modern Ukraine and was part of Poland before the partition, but ultimately in the Pale of Settlement). He was very young, so I’m not sure that he was the one seeking safety and a better life in America. Every time a new report of a synagogue shooting comes in, I wonder how much that was really achieved.

Tahini: a familiar bitter taste, even though it’s not the same. Like I said, there’s a metaphor there.


Book: Tahini, Adeena Sussman (Short Stack Editions)

Recipes made: 5/21


Middle Eastern Chicken Milanese:  I made this on a little bit of a whim; it was on my to-cook list, but I didn’t have anything for it besides the tahini. It was incredibly easy and delicious. I’m sure it’d be even better with the accompanying salad, but I can only stray so far from my comfort zone of potato side dishes; I paid tribute to the Middle Eastern flavoring by tossing the potatoes in sumac. Again:  incredible. Easy. Delicious.  I want to make it again right now.

Middle Eastern Chicken Milanese: I made this on a little bit of a whim; it was on my to-cook list, but I didn’t have anything for it besides the tahini. It was incredibly easy and delicious. I’m sure it’d be even better with the accompanying salad, but I can only stray so far from my comfort zone of potato side dishes; I paid tribute to the Middle Eastern flavoring by tossing the potatoes in sumac. Again: incredible. Easy. Delicious. I want to make it again right now.

Tahini Sandwich Cookies with Tahini-Cream Cheese Frosting:  I’m not a fan of cream cheese frosting,  and  I accidentally added an extra half-cup of sugar to the cookie dough, but these cookies overcame both obstacles. 5 stars from me, my girlfriend, and her family. They’re crumbly and a bit nutty and completely delicious, and I’m excited to explore more tahini-based baking.

Tahini Sandwich Cookies with Tahini-Cream Cheese Frosting: I’m not a fan of cream cheese frosting, and I accidentally added an extra half-cup of sugar to the cookie dough, but these cookies overcame both obstacles. 5 stars from me, my girlfriend, and her family. They’re crumbly and a bit nutty and completely delicious, and I’m excited to explore more tahini-based baking.

Skillet Chicken with Date Syrup, Sumac & Tahini:  I’d never had date syrup (or date anything) before but it was so good! This recipe was SO good! This was my girlfriend’s favorite from the month, possibly from the entire year thus far? It was a little time-consuming, but the end product was so worth it.

Skillet Chicken with Date Syrup, Sumac & Tahini: I’d never had date syrup (or date anything) before but it was so good! This recipe was SO good! This was my girlfriend’s favorite from the month, possibly from the entire year thus far? It was a little time-consuming, but the end product was so worth it.

Chocolate-Tahini Truffles:  As you can see, that is not truffles, that is a mug of hot chocolate. I’m not sure where I went wrong with the truffles, but it was somewhere! They didn’t cool quickly or evenly enough, and I couldn’t get them rolled into truffle shape, so eventually I gave up and went with the variation Sussman provides for hot chocolate. (So it still counts! Hah!) I made it with oat milk, my one true love. Very rich, quite bitter, decadently good.

Chocolate-Tahini Truffles: As you can see, that is not truffles, that is a mug of hot chocolate. I’m not sure where I went wrong with the truffles, but it was somewhere! They didn’t cool quickly or evenly enough, and I couldn’t get them rolled into truffle shape, so eventually I gave up and went with the variation Sussman provides for hot chocolate. (So it still counts! Hah!) I made it with oat milk, my one true love. Very rich, quite bitter, decadently good.

Coffee Halvah:  Another dessert where something went wrong! I’m not quite sure, but something went wrong in the process of mixing the tahini with the sugar syrup, and when it set, it was a layer of liquidy halvah on top of a layer of hardened sugar. It’s fine, I went back to it tonight and melted all of it again, and (fingers crossed) it worked this time. I can’t tell you exactly what it’s like to eat a bar of this, but I compulsively dipped my fingers and spoons in the mixture, so I think that might say it all.

Coffee Halvah: Another dessert where something went wrong! I’m not quite sure, but something went wrong in the process of mixing the tahini with the sugar syrup, and when it set, it was a layer of liquidy halvah on top of a layer of hardened sugar. It’s fine, I went back to it tonight and melted all of it again, and (fingers crossed) it worked this time. I can’t tell you exactly what it’s like to eat a bar of this, but I compulsively dipped my fingers and spoons in the mixture, so I think that might say it all.

Bonus Content : The oft-mentioned girlfriend holding my uncle’s cat, Jimi, a real bundle of very (very) soft joy (so soft).

Bonus Content: The oft-mentioned girlfriend holding my uncle’s cat, Jimi, a real bundle of very (very) soft joy (so soft).

Prosciutto di Parma (Short Stack 03/12)

Another month, another Short Stack! This month’s was Prosciutto di Parma, which was great because prosciutto is one of my favorite meat products and I really enjoyed learning new ways to cook with it that aren’t just “slap it in between a bagel with fresh mozzarella and call it a sandwich” (although that ‘recipe’ is really good, I promise).

I did better than I thought I would, given that prosciutto di Parma can be expensive and given the other things I had going on this month. I shot for CASE/BY/CASE NYC for the first time this year, a wonderful interview with the incredibly inspiring Ale Lariu, who spoke with us about the unique challenges that women (and mothers in particular) face in the workforce. I love shooting for C/B/C — I’ve learned so much and been privy to so many fascinating, educational conversations. I like to think of myself as someone who can get excited about anything so long as I’m interacting with someone who is knowledgeable and enthusiastic. There are very few subjects that outright bore me. I’m thinking here of another C/B/C interview, this one discussing data science, which I really know next to nothing about and yet found so interesting. (I won’t go on here, but you should read it.)

This is really my goal in doing this Short Stack project: I want to get enthusiastic about ingredients I don’t know anything about. This month, though, I fell back into old loves, culinary and academic. I’m working on a sourcebook for Onyx Path’s Changeling: the Lost, a tabletop roleplaying game I’ve loved since I was a teenager. Literally, I vividly remember toting the core book (and the main World of Darkness rulebook, since back then they parceled out mechanics into a separate book that you had to have to play, which was ridiculous, but anyway…) on college visits. I’d sit at a hotel desk and pull out the books and some printed character sheets and dream people up. I was 16 then; I’m 26 now. This game has been with me for a long time, and I’m so damn excited to be part of its 2nd edition — but I digress, sort of.

As part of my freelance assignment, I’ve spent the last month and a half reading fairy tales and folklore from around the world, something I was really passionate about in high school and university that fell off after I started working in journalism. A lot of things fell off because of journalism. It’s very hard to switch your brain back and forth between reading and writing 500-word news articles and reading and writing fiction. It’s been lovely to revisit that, like curling up in a comfortable old blanket. Eating prosciutto di Parma is the same way, a comfort food I’ve loved for a long time, nourishing my body like fairy tales nourish my mind. It feels fitting that this overlapped.


Book: Prosciutto di Parma, Sara Jenkins (Short Stack Editions)

Recipes made: 6/20


Wilted Greens with Prosciutto:  I like the idea of this, but didn’t love the execution — I found it to be a bit oily and also too hot (both of which were probably my own fault, as I quartered the recipe and that sort of reduction can be hard). I’d love to try the full recipe again and see what happens.

Wilted Greens with Prosciutto: I like the idea of this, but didn’t love the execution — I found it to be a bit oily and also too hot (both of which were probably my own fault, as I quartered the recipe and that sort of reduction can be hard). I’d love to try the full recipe again and see what happens.

Cheesy Prosciutto Bread:  I have no idea if it’s the recipe or if it’s somehow me, but Jesus christ this was  peppery , like far too much black pepper than anyone has ever needed ever. I didn’t grind most of it fine enough because it takes one million years to grind even just one tablespoon of black pepper (I don’t own a spice grinder it’s fine I’m fine). When my mouth wasn’t full of pepper, this was delicious and I’d like to try it again, but yeah, the pepper…did a whole lot.

Cheesy Prosciutto Bread: I have no idea if it’s the recipe or if it’s somehow me, but Jesus christ this was peppery, like far too much black pepper than anyone has ever needed ever. I didn’t grind most of it fine enough because it takes one million years to grind even just one tablespoon of black pepper (I don’t own a spice grinder it’s fine I’m fine). When my mouth wasn’t full of pepper, this was delicious and I’d like to try it again, but yeah, the pepper…did a whole lot.

Grits with Prosciutto & Gravy:  I’d never made grits before, which is probably a major source of shame to my Louisiana family, but I’m also very glad my first time making them was for this recipe! I think my girlfriend said it best: “I am going to shove my entire face into this prosciutto, grits and gravy thing.” There’s really nothing else to be done.

Grits with Prosciutto & Gravy: I’d never made grits before, which is probably a major source of shame to my Louisiana family, but I’m also very glad my first time making them was for this recipe! I think my girlfriend said it best: “I am going to shove my entire face into this prosciutto, grits and gravy thing.” There’s really nothing else to be done.

Spinach Salad with Prosciutto Vinaigrette & Egg Mimosa:  Look, I don’t know how to photograph salad, and I don’t know how to make it either. I burned/charred (if we’re being generous) the prosciutto for the vinaigrette, and I didn’t boil the egg hard enough because I prefer runny yolks. I didn’t finish this. I’d like to try it again sometime, but maybe I’ll practice with a cheaper form of pork first.

Spinach Salad with Prosciutto Vinaigrette & Egg Mimosa: Look, I don’t know how to photograph salad, and I don’t know how to make it either. I burned/charred (if we’re being generous) the prosciutto for the vinaigrette, and I didn’t boil the egg hard enough because I prefer runny yolks. I didn’t finish this. I’d like to try it again sometime, but maybe I’ll practice with a cheaper form of pork first.

Egg Tagliolini with Prosciutto, Butter & Parmesan:  So so so good. I’d never made fresh pasta from scratch, and I didn’t cut the noodles thin enough, but whatever, everything here was harmonious and delicious and I’m very excited to make it again.

Egg Tagliolini with Prosciutto, Butter & Parmesan: So so so good. I’d never made fresh pasta from scratch, and I didn’t cut the noodles thin enough, but whatever, everything here was harmonious and delicious and I’m very excited to make it again.

Migas de Pastor:  These are Spanish-style migas, which I suppose was only right for my first attempt, given my background. They are very good and very easy and I ate a few spoonfuls just like this before…

Migas de Pastor: These are Spanish-style migas, which I suppose was only right for my first attempt, given my background. They are very good and very easy and I ate a few spoonfuls just like this before…

…I put an egg on it. Even better.

…I put an egg on it. Even better.